The Legendary Duo: Chhatu Babu & Latu Babu

As in Bollywood, where we have some very famous Duos like Salim-Javed, Jatin-Lalit, Laksmikant-Pyareylal etc, in Kolkata also we have a very famous Duo whose name is so popular that in North Kolkata there is a market in their name. They are Chhatubabu and Latubabu... the sons of Sir Ramdulal De (Deb Sarkar also known as Ship Sarkar), the pioneer in Indo-US trade and the first modern Bengali millionaire.

Chhatu Babu Latu Babu's Royal Mansion; Picture Courtesy Hindustan Times

Before we delve into the details of Chhatubabu and Latubabu... let me give you a brief intro of their father Ishwar Ramdulal De... A millionaire by choice and hard work. Ramdulal was born in a very poor family in very helpless conditions. He lost his parents in a very early age. He had to stay with his maternal Grand mother who was a cook in Madanmohan Dutta's (a businessman) home. Since Ramdulal's grandmother was too old and was too poor so it was difficult for her to raise Ramdulal and his younger sister. Madanmohan took pity on these kids and gave them shelter at his place... Ram used to work as a servent and used to do the odd jobs. He also started studying with Madanmohan's kids.

Later on when Ramdulal grew Madanmohan employed him in his business as a mere bill collector (sarkar) on a very low salary of Rs.5 per month. By sheer hard work, honesty and determination he soon won his master's confidence. His opulence is said to have begun with a very fortunate incident. Once there was a bidding happening for a ship at the docks so Madanmohan gave him Rs.14000 (which was a huge amount during those days) for bidding for a particular ship. But by the time Ramdulal reached that place the Ship was already sold to someone.

There was another bidding going on for a ship that was sunk... so Ramdulal tried his luck and bought that ship for Rs.14000 and then within few hours sold it to an Englishman for Rs.100000. He came back home and gave the whole money to his Master and told him the whole story. Madanmohan was very happy he took back only Rs. 14000 and returned rest of the money to Ramdulal saying that he doesn't have any right to the money coz Ramdulal earned it. And from here on Ramdulal went on to become the first millionaire of Bengal.

Ramdulal is the foremost Bengal business visionary who had business dealings with the Americans and Europeans, and the first to arrange voyages towards the Western Hemisphere with his own ship.

Shri Ramdulal De (Ship Sarkar)

He was held in such high esteem by his Ameriacn counterparts that they named one of their ships ‘Ramdulal De’ which made several voyages from Salem (a port near Boston) to Kolkata. A fine portrait of George Washington was also presented to him. The Legend has it that the USA opened its consulate in Kolkata at the instance of Ramdulal De.

In 1770, Ramdulal De started organizing Durga Puja in his Beadon Street residence. Later the house and the Puja came to be known as  Chhatubabu-Latubabu’s after his sons, the illustrious Chhatubabu (Ashutosh) and Latubabu (Pramatha Nath).

Chhatu Babu

Latu Babu

The "Ramdulal Nibas Thakurbati", Ramdulal's Beadon Street residence, once used to be a huge red palatial building... but now only the decorous ‘Nat Mandir’ (in sanskrit Nat / Nata = dance and Mandir = temple), embellished with some decorative chandeliers, stands in 67E Beadon Street in North Kolkata, near the present Beadon Street Post Office and Girish Park Metro Station .

This humongous building was built in Victorian Architecture during the early years of British Raj. The Nat Mandir is huge and has beautiful columns with photos of the family members and various events hanging on them. The courtyard or the Nat Mandir can accommodate almost 400 people at a time.

Sitaar maestro Pandit Ravi Shankar Performing at the Nat Mandir

The puja here is popularly known as Chhatu Babu Latu Babu'r Pujo meaning  Chhatu Babu and Latu Babu's Puja. The only time general public gets to enter and see this heritage venue is during Durga and Kali Pujas. People can also participate in the religious rites... especially the Pushpanjali that happens on all the days during pujas.

Similar to their father, Chhatu Babu and Latu Babu also has may stories to their credit. As long as the tales go back it is said that once there was an Englishman who opened a new Shop of Chandeliers in north Calcutta (the old name of Kolkata during British Raj). Latu Babu, being an admirer of  beautiful things, went to the shop to see the products. The Englishman didn't know who Latubabu is... So when Latubabu inquired about the price of a Chandelier, the Englishman misbehaved with him saying that it is not in his reach e.g he doesn't have the riches to buy it. This didn't go well with Latubabu, who in turn bought all the lights and chandeliers from the shop and asked the owner to spread all of those chandeliers on the road in front of the shop... and then he crushed all the chandeliers with his Ghodaa Gaadi (Horse drawn carriage).

Durga Idol of the De Family; Source: Facebook Page

Durga is adorned with stunning heirlooms, a few over two centuries, including a dazzling Naulakkha haar. The Framework, which is used to create the idol of Maa Durga, known as the Kaathaamo in Bangla is worshiped on the day of "Rath Yaatra". The lion of Durga looks like a horse. The Chalchitra in the back has image of Shiva and also has a Lotus on which Jaya and Vijaya are seated.

Family members in festive mood; Source: Facebook Page

Earlier during Durga puja, on the eighth day (Ashtami) animal sacrifices used to happen...the Goddess is offered sacrificial animal in this ritual in the belief that it stimulates her violent vengeance against the buffalo demon Asura... but now vegetables are sacrificed for the sake of the rituals. It is said that once during such a ritual the goat that was supposed to be sacrificed ran away and took shelter at Ramdulal's feet... From that day Ramdulal stopped the animal sacrifice.

Neel Kantha Paakhi (Indian Roller Bird) Source: Wikimedia

The ritual of setting two Neel Kantha (Indian Roller) birds free, on the tenth day of the Puja i.e Dashami, is popular with this family too. It is said that these birds are actually messengers of God... one bird flies to Kailash mountain and informs Shivji about his wife's (Durga's) arrival. The other one flies back from the river to home to inform the members of the De family about the safe departure of Goddess Durga.

The puja is now organised by a trust named "The Anamth Nath Deb Trust" created by the great grand sons of Shri Ram Dulal De Sarkar in the year 1919.

A lot of Hindi and Bengali films are also shot in this building. If you remember, In the Bollywood movie "Parineeta", the location for Shekhar's (played by Saif Ali Khan) gorgeous house was the palatial "Ramdulal Nibas".

There is a big market too named after the brothers "Chhatu Babu Latu Babu Bazaar". One of the oldest markets of Kolkata. Charak Puja (also known as Nil Puja) is being organised in this marketplace since a very long time. This puja and the Charak mela (Fair) is held on the last day of the month of Chaitra (in Bengali calendars called Choitro). Here are some photos of the Fair by my friend Protip Chakraborty.

The address of The Ramdulaal Nibas is:

Ramdulal Nibas (Thakurbati), 67E, Beadon Road, Kolkata
(located opposite Beadon Street Post Office)

Website: https://www.facebook.com/Chatu-Babu-Latu-Babu-Thakurbari-Ramdulal-Nivas-109993123102475/
Entry: You can enter the building during Durga puja
Nearest Metro Station: Girish Park
Nearest Bus Stop: Maniktala (In North Kolkata)

Here's the Google map location of the Ramdulal De Nibas: